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Diy// step-by-step illustration of how to cut and sew three-quarter Ankara buba gown with bold Aso-oke collar

deborahstitches

Published: 21 Apr 2026 › Updated: 21 Apr 2026Diy// step-by-step illustration of how to cut and sew three-quarter Ankara buba gown with bold Aso-oke collar

Diy// step-by-step illustration of how to cut and sew three-quarter Ankara buba gown with bold Aso-oke collar

Hello hive

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Good afternoon, DIYhud community! ✂️✨

Happy Tuesday to you all! May today be filled with fresh inspiration, creative energy, and beautiful results from every stitch, cut, and design you bring to life.

Keep creating, keep learning, and keep shining—your hands are building something amazing! 💫

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I'm so glad to share, step-by-step illustration of how to cut and sew three-quarter Ankara buba gown with bold Aso-oke collar, side pockets, and slits, easy to make and does not consult time.

✂️ MATERIALS NEEDED
2 yards of Ankara
Aso-oke (for collar and yoke)
Matching thread
Scissors
Measuring tape
Ruler
Chalk

FOLDING & BASIC CUT

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Fold your Ankara into two (lengthwise), then fold again to get front and back together.
Mark your full length (45 inches).
From the top, mark your shoulder line.

NECKLINE & SHOULDER

Mark neck width (3 inches).
Mark:
Back depth: 1 inch
Front depth: 2.5 inches
Extend the neckline downward by 4.5 inches to form the front opening (for the Aso-oke detail).
Slightly slope the shoulder ( 1 inches).

BODY WIDTH (FREE BUBU SHAPE)
Use your hip measurement as the widest point:
36 ÷ 4 = 9 inches
Add 6 inches ease = 15 inches total (on fold)
Apply this measurement across bust, waist, and hip for a loose fit.
Draw a straight down to the hem.

SLEEVE FORMATION

This style uses a kimono/free sleeve (no separate sleeve cutting).
Extend from shoulder outward about 8_10 inches depending on desired sleeve length). But I used 10 inches for mine.
Mark sleeve opening width and cut.

SIDE POCKET & SLIT

From the shoulder, measure 17 inches down – mark pocket position.
From the hem, measure 11 inches upward – this is your slit opening.

CUTTING AND SEWING OF THE ASO-OKE (Front Panel)

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Cut a curved panel using Aso-oke (as seen in your image).
Place it on the chest area and stitch neatly on the Ankara.

After that joint the front and back seam shoulder.
Attached the Aso-oke to sleeves area

CUTTING AND SEWING OF THE COLLAR

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Measure round the neck area.Cut a straight collar strip from Aso-oke 17.5inche. cut out two pieces of it then run a stitch before attaching it to the neckline area then Topstitch for a clean finish.

Sew side seams:

Sew from sleeve down to pocket
Skip pocket opening
Continue sewing below pocket
Stop at slit point

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Attach pocket pieces neatly inside and hem slit side and down of the dress. Press the garment well

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✨ FINAL LOOK
You’ll achieve:
A loose, comfortable buba fit
A bold Aso-oke collar and chest panel (yoke)
Clean side slits for easy movement
Functional hidden side pockets.

Thanks for word of encouragement that has keep me going and make me to do better, do you have a fruitful day.

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