STEP BY STEP PROCESS OF SEWING A PUFFY-SLEEVE ANKARA DRESS WITH ELASTIC GATHERS FOR A NEW CUSTOMER

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In this post I will be sharing with you how I made a beautiful dress for a first time customer. She walked into my shop with two beautiful patterned ankara fabrics (one for her and the other for her sister). In her words, she said that she has been admiring my works each time she passes by my shop. Such words were very encouraging and motivating. So, she showed me the style she would love to recreate on her phone and it is a dress that has gathers created with elastics on the neckline and it also has puffed short sleeves. It is such a comfortable and stylish design.

Materials Needed

• 3 yards of Ankara fabric
• 4 yards of lining
• 1 yard of elastic
• 1 yard of hair stay
• ¼ yard of breast pad
• Zip
• Tailoring chalk
• Matching threads

Step by Step

• These are the measurements i will be using bust - 46", upper bust - 42", under bust - 16.5", bodice length - 26", waist - 42", round shoulder circumference - 48", hip - 47", gown length - 60".
  

• Start by folding the ankara fabric into two and mark out the bodice length (26") from the shoulder down. For seam allowance add extra 1".

• Next, mark out the neckline, armhole and shoulder width. We will be cutting the neckline wider than the usual measurements since we are creating an elastic gathers at the neckline.
  

• Next, cut the front piece of the bodice and back piece of the bodice. You will have to add about 7 extra inches which will be used for the gathers when cutting the round elastic neckline.

• We are attaching a puffy sleeves to the dress, so fold the fabrics and cut a large ballon-like sleeve shape and adjust to your size of preference. I opted for a short sleeve in my case.
  

• For the skirt part, fold the remaining ankara fabric into two using the gown length (60") and deducting the bodice length (26"). The skirt part will be a-line to allow for comfort and easy movement.

• Next, cut the lining for both the bodice and skirt part using the pattern of the ankara fabrics.
  

• Next, cut the hairstay and attach to the front lining piece of the bodice, then cut the breast pad and attach to the lining on the bust point for structure and firmness.

• Next, join the lining pieces together at the shoulder and sides.

• Next, sew the ankara bodice pieces and proceed to join the lining and Ankara bodice at the neckline. Then fold the neckline seam allowance inward to form where the elastic will pass through. Ensure to leave a small opening where the elastic will be inserted after stitching.

• Use a nail or pin to pass through the elastic and evenly spread tge gathers around the neckline to achieve a ruche effect.

• Next, close the opening that was used to pass the elastic by stitching it accordingly.

• Now, attach the sleeves to the armholes of the bodice and proceed to the skirt part.

• At the side seams join the front and back pieces of the skirt and attach the bodice to it by carefully aligning the print.

• Next, insert the zipper and hem the dress and give it a good press.

• Then give the dress a good press all round and check for any place that needs one adjustment or the other.
  

• Invite your customer for fitting or wear the dress on a mannequin to check for the fitting.

• Your dress is ready.

Thanks for reading and see you in my next one.

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