Life, death, and liberation by the Ganga - Manikarnika Ghat
Manikarnika Ghat is the holiest cremation ground in Hinduism, renowned for its eternal burning pyres that never extinguish. It is highly revered because Hindus believe that souls cremated here instantly achieve moksha, breaking the cycle of rebirth. It is one of the popular place in Varanasi. Whosoever visit the city, always wants to visit the place. Every individual have their own perspective of this place. According to Hindu mythology, dying and being cremated at Manikarnika Ghat guarantees a soul liberation from the eternal cycle of death and reincarnation. This makes this a hot destination to see the burning pyre round the clock.
The ghat is the site of around 100 – 200 cremations every single day. The pyres burn 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. I heard of its multiple time but never ever visited the place. But last time I made sure to make most of my spare time in tracing the local route to the place. After enquiring with few street vendors I found the way to the ghats.
Tracing the Manikarnika Ghat within the old city is always challenging. The ghat is buried deep inside the dense, ancient core of Varanasi. The path leading to it from the mainland is a spiderweb of incredibly narrow, winding, unmapped alleys that are constantly congested. Also the ghat is a major focal point, visitors are often approached by aggressive touts or guides attempting to sell expensive sandalwood or demanding "donations" for the eternal flame.
The labyrinthine lanes to Manikarnika define the historic heart of Varanasi. These are vibrant, historic, and undeniably chaotic. Once you are inside the lanes, you will share the winding paths with pedestrians, cycles, stray cows, and locals carrying firewood or dead bodies for the cremation. For a moment I was loss in the mazes. But once you are lost, it is sensible to follow the crowd. I did that exactly which lead ahead towards my destination. I was simply walking unknowingly just following the people. At few occasions, fee dead body crossed me and I have to stopped midway to give way to them. The people were always in rush, as it might take much time to get you number in setting up the pyre.
As I get nearer, I started noticing number of wooden logs spread all over in open. They were the shops meant to sell those logs for pyre. There lot of wooden logs assembled all the place.
The sight of wooden logs gave me some satisfaction as it made sure, I was on the correct path. It has been said that Manikarnika Ghat teaches us an important lesson of mortality. Watching the continuous pyres brings an acceptance of the natural, inescapable cycle of existence. As I moved further ahead, I saw number of burning pyres. The sight.accompanied by the scent of burning wood and the open realities of funeral rites was incredibly profound.
I hesitated to click photography, but for the memory books, I clicked few. One of our local priest used to say that, continuously witnessing the cycle of life and death, we are reminded to live deeply, value connections, and find peace in our eternal nature. The place is full of grief and sorrow but at the same it reminded us the bitter truth of mortality.
In good faith - Peace!!
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